Here, we tend to think of it as complicated, and even a little scary. It’s a hard, pungent-smelling, musty thing that resembles a piece of leather. What on earth, are we meant to do with it?

I realise, what with issues of over-fishing, that cod is a potential minefield, but I believe that the cultural value of salt cod makes it worth a risk. Its importance in the culinary traditions of the Basque Country cannot be underestimated. And it’s very popular in Iceland, thanks to their sustainable fishing policies.

The advice from the Marine Conservation Society is to “avoid eating cod from overfished stocks”. They recommend choosing line-caught cod from a sustainable stock. I also suggest you strike up a dialogue with your fishmonger – ask if he stocks line-caught fish, and where it is from.
I have to say, however, that I have never found the shop-bought version satisfactory Often it can be hard, sinewy and massively over-salted As a result, I became intrigued by curing the fish myself. The idea that you can take an ingredient in its purest form, and by respectfully manipulating it, turn it into something else, is incredibly gratifying.I began to experiment and, through trial and error, have managed to achieve a cure that is gentle and succulent.

In fact, it is beautiful and delicate enough to serve raw and unrinsed. Sliced as finely as smoked salmon, drizzled with oil, lots of pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice, there’s nothing like it. (omega)Skye Gyngell is head chef at Petersham Nurseries, off Petersham Road, London, TW10, tel: 020 8940 5230How to cure your codAsk your fishmonger for a skinned cod fillet. Rinse it under cold water and gently pat it dry using a dish cloth. Lay the fish on a stainless-steel rack which fits snugly inside a larger pan (that will later catch the drips while the cod is curing). Weigh the fish and season it with 11/2 tablespoons of plain, good-quality sea salt per 500g (16oz) of fish Season the fillet evenly all over on both sides. You will need to go over the thicker central section of the fish with a little more salt to ensure that this, the thickest part of your fillet, also receives an even curing.Loosely cover the whole pan with cling film to prevent the smell seeping into the rest of your fridge.

There is no way of getting round it – home-curing cod is a very stinky business Refrigerate the pan and leave to cure for seven days. In the interest of cleanliness, I would recommend that you remove and rinse your bottom pan every day because, as the cod begins to firm, liquid will weep from its body. Your fillet will give off approximately one tablespoon of liquid per pound.Often, depending on what I am intending to do with the end result, I only allow the fish to cure for three, rather than seven days. Rinsed and filleted into portions, this home-cured cod is gentle and delicate enough to serve simply grilled with a green sauce or roasted tomatoes and a really lemony aioli. If I was to serve it very finely sliced and raw, three days is also more than enough curing time.Home-cured salt cod with tomato, fennel, saffron and aioliServes 4This dish’s base flavours are reminiscent of a classic French bouillabaisse; the difference essentially being that there is not the varied mixture of fish that a traditional bouillabaisse displays. The pungent garlicky aioli once stirred in helps to create a rich, velvety sauce with a sublime flavour.800g/28oz salt cod (soaked and drained) 1 large, or 2 medium fennel bulbs, chopped (fronds reserved for garnish) A good pinch of saffron threads 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped 1/3 cup of olive oil 4 garlic cloves peeled and chopped 1 medium leek, sliced 3 fresh bay leaves A few sprigs of fresh thyme Quarter cup dry white wine 2 tins good quality Italian plum tomatoes The peel of one orange 3/4 cup lightly salted warm water (or, if you don’t object, then chicken stock) Slice the fennel into 2cm (3/4in) thick wedges Place the saffron in a good-size casserole dish.

Place over a low heat and, when the pan is just hot to the touch, add the olive oil and quickly swirl the pan Add the onion, fennel and a good pinch of sea and stir. Cover and cook gently, stirring occasionally until the onion is transluscent; about 10 minutes Add the leeks and garlic and cook for another few minutes Pour in the wine and allow to bubble and evaporate slightly. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme, orange peel, a sprinkling of pepper and the warm water or stock. Cook over a low heat for a further 15 minutes with the lid on and stir occasionally.Meanwhile, slice the salt cod on an angle into 3cm (11/2in) thick pieces and place it in the pan, nestling it among the other ingredients. Bring to a low simmer and cook for 3 minutes swirling the pan gently once or twice to allow the flavours to get to know each other. Turn off the heat and allow the flavours to sit together for a minute. Before serving, scatter the fennel fronds over the dish and serve in the dish it was cooked in.The only accompaniment this dish needs is warm crusty bread to soak up the juices and a simple green salad Serve aioli separately, if desired.